5. Oct, 2022

5. Oct, 2022

5. Oct, 2022

WEDNESDAY 5-10-22

Another good night's sleep, though the thought of our shortage of water kept me awake after about 07:00.

I decided that no matter what the problem we would have a quick shower this morning. This is especially important for The Chef who needs to wash her hair properly every few days, those days she misses she uses some sort of dry shampoo or other.

So the boiler was fired up to produce central heating, as the nights are getting quite cool, and hot water at 60°C.

After scrubbing up I set about emptying the grey water tank the hard way using a collapsible ten-litre bucket. Having dumped six bucketfuls I established that we have forty litres of fresh water left. We'd cope with that if we have to but then I remembered that on the Travelscript I had identified a Truckstop on the motorway just north of Reims. This was to be a 'Plan B' if we had driven to the Camperstop there and couldn't get a space. After using Google Maps and its Streetview I was able to establish that in its HGV parking area they had very thoughtfully built toilet facilities for the drivers and there was also a fresh water tap and sink on the outside of the building. Needless to say that's where we'll be stopping off to fill our tank.

Today we had a little walk up the road to the village boulangerie and established that it was closing for a week, and not just any week, but this week. Noodles for lunch was beginning to look like an option.

I mentioned to The Chef that I fancied popping down the road in the opposite direction to take a few pictures. We could use the bus to get there and then find somewhere to get a baguette. And so it was. I had the houses of Moet et Chandon and Bollinger on my hit list.

The bus stopped right next to Moet et Chandon's establishment (N49.050997 E4.015433) and I have to say it was very underwhelming, yet the guide book says that its establishment in Epernay was among the best. Using Google Maps on my phone we walked to Bollinger's (N49.054364 E4.010827).

That was so much nicer. The buildings looked quite classy, and I had to assume that the large vineyards on the hills behind belonged to them. I think though, if they are protective of their name and image they should find somewhere else to park their dumpsters.

So a bit about the making champagne:

To produce its characteristic bubbles, champagne has to undergo a process of double fermentation.

First fermentation: The base wine, made from rather acidic grapes, is fermented at 20-22°C in either stainless steel tanks or, occasionally, in oak barrels. It is then siphoned off from the sediment and kept at colder temperatures to clear completely, before being drawn off and blended with wines from other areas and years (except in the case of vintage champagne). The wine is bottled and the liqueur de tirage (sugar, wine and yeast) is added.

Second fermentation: The bottles are stored for a year or more in cool, chalky cellars. The yeast converts the sugar to alcohol and carbon dioxide, which produces the sparkle, and the yeast cells die leaving a deposit. To remove this, the inverted bottles are turned and tapped daily (remuage) to shift the deposits into the neck of the bottle. Finally, the deposits are expelled by the process known as dégorgement. This is when the neck of the bottle is plunged in freezing brine and the frozen block of sediment is then removed. Then a bit of sugar syrup (liqueur d'expédition) is added to adjust the sweetness before the final cork is inserted. Champagnes, especially vintage ones, improve with aging.

Baguette sourced, we looked to make our way back 'home' on the bus. Only trouble was, according to the timetable there was not a bus due for another hour (they run every thirty minutes, we missed one by three minutes as it passed us by). I was all for finding somewhere to sit and have a coffee or beer or something, but The Chef wanted to walk back. It wasn't a  million miles, and took about twenty minutes or so. Just quick enough to beat the bus back which the timetable stated didn't run.

During lunch we were joined by a hippy-looking couple and their two large dogs (no leads of course) and their female friend who was travelling in a small campervan behind them and parked about three parking spaces away. Out came tables and chairs followed by their lunch, and why not, even though you're not supposed to. I said to The Chef that I was a bit worried that late this evening the three of them, set up only a stones-throw from the front of our vehicle, could get a bit noisy if the booze comes out.

After lunch we went for a nice walk along the side of the canal in the opposite direction to the one we normal take. I usually make a point of taking the camera along but decided instead not to bother. Which was a shame as we past some interesting locations involved in the making of champagne.

Upon our return I seized the moment and told the German scruffs that we'd move further along the parking bays so that their friend could come and park next to them and they could all be together. They were quite happy about that offer, which was a shame.

The has been a recent piece of nonsense research which has identified the top ten most annoying sounds to people. Forget about fingernails scraping down a blackboard, for me it's the sound of a happy German.

It's very autumnal and windy here at the moment resulting in crispy dry leaves from the trees around and above us blowing everywhere, including in to the vehicle if we're not careful.

Tomorrow we need to set off in good time so that we can pop to the supermarket at the other end of the village before then going to the Truckstop for water. From there we'll make our way to our final planned visit. After that we'll be heading towards the coast ready for our crossing on Friday.

5. Oct, 2022

4. Oct, 2022