28. Sep, 2022

28. Sep, 2022

WEDNESDAY 28-09-22

Fortunately although it's been a bit of a blowy day, it wasn't as bad as they had forecast, but that hadn't stopped us putting chairs and mat away just in case.

The toilet block was a bit of an experience with the water in the shower barely warm. On top of that I lost an ear plug in there which had disappeared from view by the time I had realised, so that obviously went down the plughole, along with the sand and grit I had introduced in to the shower tray on the bottom of my flip-flops. I didn't care about that as I never stand my bare feet in public places like around swimming pools and showers.

So a bit about Le Grau-du-Roi:

The city of Aigues-Mortes gained importance during the crusades when it was a royal port. King Louis IX of France had no other port available to him on the Mediterranean. Ships docked alongside the ramparts of the city and passed through a circuitous channel, (the Old Channel) through the Étang de Repausset to the sea at Grau Louis. In 1570, a storm surge from the Rhone entered the etang and breached the coastal strip forming a new grau. A six-kilometre channel was created from the city directly to the sea. In 1640 this was named the Grau du Roi, and although the name changed several times afterwards, it eventually reverted to its current name. In 1772 two breakwaters were constructed out of stone. After much subsequent work, it became a canal in 1845.

There was an old lighthouse in the village which got a new copper lantern in 1828, and a second was constructed at I’Espiquette in 1867.

The village, based around fishing cottages, gained administrative buildings and was recognised as a section of Aigues-Mortes in 1867, becoming a separate commune in 1879. The village of fishers and farmers turned to tourism at the end of the 19th century, with the extension of the Nimes Aigues-Mortes railway line in 1909 bathers arrived en masse, and on the 26 April 1924 the French President of the Republic decreed that Le Grau-du-Roi was a "station climatique et balnéaire" (beach resort town). The rail line enabled local producers to market their white grapes and fish nationally.

World War II affected the village profoundly. Axis troops were stationed in the village, and the local council dissolved. By 1942, many of the inhabitants had fled; the coast was on the front line and bristled with tank traps and minefields. The village was controlled by blockhouses, and the canal was shut off. Wood from houses was used to build defences. Le Grau-du-Roi was liberated in August 1944, and the coast started to rebuild, with a focus on tourism. The effort was coordinated by the plan Racine. Architect Jean Balladur was put in charge, and he designed structures capable of supporting a large number of tourists, while also supporting the local way of life and environment. Part of the plan included the new marina at Port-Camargue. This was launched in 1968 and finished in 1985.

We were off out at about 10:00 for a look around the area. We walked right down the main road to the edge of 'town' before getting our bearings regarding the location of the marina. It was becoming clear this really is the end of the tourists season. Even the large funfair area was being dismantled and taken away.

 On the way back we popped in to the 'U' Express supermarket, The Chef looking for a baguette and me some wine. We were taken aback by the lack of stock on the shelves and concluded that this small supermarket, as well as the local campsites, was about to close for the season. Imagine how pleased I was when looking at the wine selection to discover that one of the bottles of wine I bought in touristy Aigues Mortes for ten Euros and have drunk and considered it a fair price, was selling for €5.89 a bottle. Four bottles and a carrier bag later we were off back 'home' for lunch.

This afternoon we thought we'd make our way to Port Camargue which is a pretty big marina. In fact it's more than a marina. It's a whole community of apartments, businesses, small shops and restaurants. It filled the afternoon and it was interesting to see the many different sailing and motorboat designs. There was one business we had a look around. It sold electric bikes and scooters, ideal if you could squeeze them in to a motorhome garage. Everywhere we walked this afternoon there were large numbers of locals playing boules, it must be really popular here. I would have liked us to have bought ours along but a set of six balls is quite heavy.

On the way back we decided we'd pop out later and eat out. It came to a choice between a pizza from a business a few doors down from the supermarket, or a McDonalds from even more doors down from the supermarket.

On our return home I set about cleaning the carpet and flooring throughout the vehicle. We had picked up a bit of mud on the cab rubber mats, and dust, sand and grit from campsite pitches. It took a while but it's always nice to see the finished job.

When we were making for this campsite for a couple of nights we were looking forward to sitting out on some grass for a change, but unfortunately we ended up with wet sand and grit, and of course that gets everywhere. I know we're only paying sixteen Euros a night including electricity  but it does not provide one single fresh water tap for campers. Water is only available in the toilet block, and even then it would have to be drawn from a handbasin for washing dishes or laundry. Nor does it provide a dump station. We can get rid of our black waste but not the grey. Well, let's put it this way, I won't be leaving the campsite tomorrow morning with ours still onboard.

With chores done we continued to try and make contact with the campsite we would like to stay at in Orange. Having gone on to their website I see they are showing two different phone numbers, so we'll try again tomorrow once we're on the road.

Our evening dining experience consisted of us walking down the road to find the pizza joint had closed along with most other outlets there, which meant we had a McDonalds. Twenty Euros for a few chicken nuggets, chips and a small beer for The Chef and a cheeseburger which looked as if the staff had accidently stood on before putting it in the box, a portion of fries and a small beer for me.

And La Camargue? We're pleased we came, but have agreed that if we hadn't been lucky enough to catch the Horse Fair last Sunday it would have been a bit of a damp squib, though we will be very happy to return to Saintes Maries de-la Mer as it's only about twelve miles off the East-West motorways if we were passing by and wanted a nice little break.

So we're off to Chusclan tomorrow, It was to have been Montpellier and then Nimes, but we're not bothering with them now, and heading north and home in about a week's time, though there are still a few things to see before we get there.

28. Sep, 2022

27. Sep, 2022

27. Sep, 2022